Autumn light over a lake in the Bois de Vincennes, 12th arrondissement of Paris
75012 · The 12th arrondissement of Paris

Paris breathes
out east

The green lung of the city: the vast Bois de Vincennes and its lakes, an elevated garden that inspired New York's High Line, the old wine village of Bercy and the golden glow of the Train Bleu.

Photo: autumn in the Bois de Vincennes · Paul Julliot / Pexels
Things to do

Tickets & experiences in the 12th

A wildlife park, a cinema museum, an elevated garden walk and the great green woods — the 12th is the most family-friendly corner of Paris. A hand-picked selection, most with free cancellation.

★ Family favourite

Parc zoologique de Paris

Around a thousand animals roam landscaped biozones beneath the 65 m Grand Rocher — one of Europe's most modern zoos, on the edge of the Bois de Vincennes.

from €22Book now
On foot

Coulée verte garden walk

A guided stroll along the 4.5 km elevated park that inspired New York's High Line, from the Bastille to Vincennes, with rose gardens and rooftop views.

from €25Book now
Outdoors

Bois de Vincennes boat & bike

Rent a rowing boat on Lac Daumesnil or cycle the shaded trails of Paris's biggest park — lakes, islands, a Buddhist temple and the Parc floral.

from €15Book now
Culture

Cinémathèque & Méliès museum

Explore the history of cinema in Frank Gehry's striking building by the Parc de Bercy — daily screenings and the magical Musée Méliès.

from €10Book now
Food & heritage

Bercy & Aligre food tour

Graze the covered Marché Beauvau and Marché d'Aligre, then wander the old wine village of Bercy with a local guide — cheese, wine and history.

from €59Book now
Tickets & passes

Château de Vincennes

Climb the tallest medieval keep in Europe and tour the royal chapel of France's great eastern fortress, on the northern edge of the woods.

from €11Book now
Discover

Where the city turns to forest

The 12th trades monuments for space and air. It runs from the Bastille down to the Bois de Vincennes — Paris's biggest green space — taking in a former wine quarter, an elevated garden and one of the grandest stations in the world along the way.

The Bois de Vincennes

Paris's largest park: nearly 1,000 hectares of woods, four lakes, a Parc floral, a Buddhist temple and the city's zoo — the eastern counterpart to the Bois de Boulogne.

The Coulée verte René-Dumont

A 4.5 km elevated garden along an old railway viaduct — the world's first of its kind, opened in 1993 and the direct inspiration for New York's High Line.

Bercy Village

The Cour Saint-Émilion: cobbled lanes of restored stone wine warehouses, now a pedestrian village of shops, terraces and a cinema.

The Gare de Lyon & Train Bleu

A grand 1900 station crowned by a Garnier-style clock tower, home to Le Train Bleu — a gilded Belle Époque dining room that's a monument in its own right.

The Cinémathèque française

One of the world's great film archives, in a sculptural Frank Gehry building beside the Parc de Bercy, with daily screenings and the Musée Méliès.

The Marché d'Aligre

A beloved daily market — the covered Marché Beauvau, an open-air stretch and a flea market — at the buzzing, village-like heart of local life.

Where to eat & drink

Tables & markets of the 12th

From a gilded railway palace to a guinguette in the woods, the 12th eats well and unpretentiously — with two of the best markets in Paris on its doorstep.

Belle Époque · Iconic

Le Train Bleu

Gare de Lyon · Place Louis-Armand

A listed 1901 dining room dripping with gilt and frescoes, above the platforms of the Gare de Lyon. Come for the room as much as the classic French menu.

€€€€🌐 Official site
Market · Covered hall

Marché d'Aligre & Beauvau

Place d'Aligre

One of the liveliest markets in Paris — a covered hall, an open-air stretch and a flea market, daily except Monday. Cheese, oysters, produce and bargains.

€€
Food hall · Bar

Ground Control

81 Rue du Charolais

A former mail-sorting depot turned vast food hall and bar near the Gare de Lyon — street food, craft beer, DJ sets and a free-wheeling, creative crowd.

€€
Restaurants · Terraces

Bercy Village

Cour Saint-Émilion

A pedestrian lane of the old wine warehouses, lined with restaurant terraces and a cinema — easy, family-friendly dining beside the Parc de Bercy.

€€
Guinguette · Bar

Rosa Bonheur à l'Est

Bois de Vincennes

An open-air guinguette bar in the woods — tapas, dancing and a festive crowd by Lac Daumesnil. The eastern sister to the original on the Buttes-Chaumont.

€€
Bistro · Wine

Rue de Cotte & around Aligre

Around Place d'Aligre

The streets around the market are lined with natural-wine bars, neo-bistros and cafés — a relaxed, local alternative to the tourist centre.

€€€
Tourist guide

Must-see places in the 12th arrondissement

Great woods, an elevated garden, a wine village and a cinema cathedral — the landmarks that give the green east of Paris its character.

Park · Free

Bois de Vincennes

Paris's biggest park, with four lakes, rowing boats on Lac Daumesnil, the Parc floral, a Buddhist temple and shaded cycling trails. Open daily, free.

Garden walk · Free

Coulée verte René-Dumont

The original elevated park (1993), 4.5 km from the Bastille to Vincennes along a former viaduct — rose gardens, ponds and rooftop perspectives.

Zoo · Family

Parc zoologique de Paris

The Vincennes zoo: around a thousand animals in landscaped biozones around the iconic Grand Rocher. One of Europe's most modern wildlife parks.

Village · Free

Bercy Village & Parc de Bercy

Cobbled wine-warehouse lanes of shops and terraces (Cour Saint-Émilion), beside a romantic park with rose gardens, vines and a footbridge over the Seine.

Museum · Cinema

Cinémathèque française

A world-class film archive and museum in a Frank Gehry building by the Parc de Bercy, with daily screenings and the magical Musée Méliès.

Crafts · Free to wander

Viaduc des Arts

The brick arches beneath the Coulée verte, home to a parade of craft and design workshops along Avenue Daumesnil — cabinet-makers, luthiers and more.

Before you go

Weather in the 12th arrondissement

—°
Paris 75012
Loading current conditions…
Wind
Humidity
Get your bearings

The 75012 (12th arrondissement) on the map

Every park, landmark, market and table of the 12th on one interactive map. Filter by category, or click a place to locate it and open its links.

Map © Leaflet · © OpenStreetMap contributors · © CARTO
Orientation

Understanding Paris & its transport

Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements that spiral outward clockwise from the centre, like a snail. The 12th is the south-eastern corner of the Right Bank, running from the Bastille and the Gare de Lyon down to the Bois de Vincennes.

It's one of the greenest and most spacious arrondissements, popular with families — but the Gare de Lyon and metro line 14 put the rest of the city within minutes.

Since 2025 the system has been simplified: paper tickets are gone, replaced by the contactless Navigo Easy card or your phone. A single Métro/RER ticket is now a flat fare, and a day pass quickly pays for itself if you ride often.

For door-to-door directions, the Bonjour RATP and Citymapper apps are the most reliable companions.

Métro / RER single€2.55
Bus / tram single€2.05
Day pass (unlimited)€12.30
Navigo Week pass~€31
Airport ticket (CDG/Orly)€14
Navigo Easy card€2 (reusable)
Getting around

How to reach the 12th arrondissement

Anchored by the Gare de Lyon — a major rail, RER and metro hub — and superbly served by the driverless line 14. Here are the essentials.

🚇

By metro

  • 114 Gare de Lyon Main hub & RER
  • 14 Bercy / Cour St-Émilion Bercy Village
  • 8 Porte Dorée Zoo & woods
  • 1 Château de Vincennes Fortress & park
🚆

Hubs & RER

  • Gare de Lyon RER A & D · TGV south
  • Châtelet RER A · ~6 min
  • Nation 26 · RER A
  • Bibliothèque F.-M. RER C · across the Seine
✈️

From the airports

  • Roissy–Charles de Gaulle RER A + B, ~50 min
  • Orly RER + tram, ~40 min
  • Le Bourget ~40 min
  • Beauvais 1h20–1h35

The Paris Métro at a glance

One of the world's densest networks — 16 lines, over 300 stations, a train every 2–4 minutes. You're never far from a station.
1 2 3 3b 4 5 6 7 7b 8 9 10 11 12 13 14
🎨
Colour & number coded. Each line has a unique number and colour. Follow the line colour and the name of the terminus in your direction — that's how platforms are signposted.
⏱️
Frequent. Trains run roughly every 2 minutes at peak and 4–8 minutes off-peak, from ~5:30 am to ~1:15 am (2:15 am Fri–Sat).
🔄
Free transfers. Change lines as often as you like within the métro/RER on a single ticket, valid up to 2 hours, as long as you don't exit the gates.
🚀
Line 14. The fully automated line 14 races through the 12th via Gare de Lyon and Bercy — the fastest way across the city.
📍
For the 12th: Gare de Lyon (1, 14) anchors the north; Bercy and Cour Saint-Émilion (14) the riverside; Porte Dorée (8) and Château de Vincennes (1) the woods.
📱
Apps. Bonjour RATP and Citymapper give live routes, platform exits and disruptions — far easier than paper maps.
Tickets: the paper ticket is gone — load journeys onto a contactless Navigo Easy card (€2) or your phone.
Allow time at the Gare de Lyon — it has three large halls and mainline departures south; arrive early for your train.
Good to know

Frequently asked questions

What is there to see in the 12th arrondissement (75012)?
The 12th is the green, family-friendly east of Paris: the vast Bois de Vincennes with its lakes, the Parc zoologique de Paris (Vincennes zoo) and the nearby Château de Vincennes, the elevated Coulée verte René-Dumont, Bercy Village and the Parc de Bercy, the Cinémathèque française, the Gare de Lyon with its Belle Époque Train Bleu, the Viaduc des Arts and the Marché d'Aligre.
What is the Coulée verte René-Dumont?
Also called the Promenade plantée, it's a 4.5 km elevated park laid out on a former railway viaduct, running from the Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes. Opened in 1993, it was the world's first elevated park of its kind and directly inspired New York's High Line. The arches beneath house the craft workshops of the Viaduc des Arts.
Can you visit the Bois de Vincennes and its zoo?
Yes. The Bois de Vincennes is Paris's largest park, free and open daily, with four lakes (rent rowing boats on Lac Daumesnil), a Parc floral, and the Parc zoologique de Paris, home to around a thousand animals around its landmark Grand Rocher. The medieval Château de Vincennes sits on the northern edge.
What is Bercy Village?
A pedestrian lane of shops, restaurants and a cinema set in the Cour Saint-Émilion — the restored stone wine warehouses of what was once Paris's wine-trading district. Alongside lie the Parc de Bercy and the Cinémathèque française, the French film museum in a Frank Gehry building.
How do I get to the 12th arrondissement?
The Gare de Lyon hub is served by metro lines 1 and 14, RER A and D, and mainline trains south; line 14 also reaches Bercy and Cour Saint-Émilion; line 8 serves Porte Dorée by the zoo; line 1 reaches Château de Vincennes. The Bastille (lines 1, 5, 8) is at the arrondissement's north-west corner.
Before you go

Plan your stay

A few practical essentials to make your visit to the 12th arrondissement smooth and stress-free.

🗓️

Best time to visit

Spring and autumn are glorious in the Bois de Vincennes and along the Coulée verte. The Marché d'Aligre is liveliest on weekend mornings; Bercy Village is especially pretty during the festive season.

🎫

Book ahead

Pre-book the Parc zoologique de Paris and a table at Le Train Bleu. Check Cinémathèque screenings and any concerts at the Accor Arena before you go.

💶

Money & tipping

Cards are accepted almost everywhere; markets often prefer cash. Service is included by law; rounding up for great service is appreciated, never expected.

🚲

Green & on two wheels

The 12th is made for cycling — the Coulée verte, the Bois de Vincennes trails and riverside paths link up beautifully. Vélib' stations are plentiful.

🕒

Opening hours

The Marché d'Aligre runs daily except Monday, mornings best. The zoo and Cinémathèque close one day a week — check ahead. Parks are open from dawn to dusk.

👪

Great for families

This is one of the best arrondissements for kids: the zoo, the Parc floral, boats on the lake, the Musée des Arts Forains and acres of space to run.

Plan your trip

Book with trusted partners

Compare stays, tours and experiences across the platforms travellers know best.

The Visit75 network

Explore the 20 arrondissements of Paris

Each Paris arrondissement has its own guide. Hover the map to reveal a district's name, then click to open its dedicated site — you are currently in the 12th.

🌍
Proud member

On GlobalVisitList.com

Visit75012.com is featured on GlobalVisitList.com — The List traces the "visit phenomenon" since the early days of the Internet, when some destinations from California picked up the expression.
Soon adopted by the Visitors Bureaus (VBs) of the most iconic destinations like Brescia, Copenhagen, London, Monaco or Singapore.
"Visit" has become a touch of glamour for over a thousand tourist websites.
It's something unique. Soon it will be considered as chic as owning a "crown jewel" or a "Van Gogh" painting.

GlobalVisitList.com